Can i make washable smell-resistant knitted toys that survive multi-day festivals

I’ve taken knitted toys to more festivals than I can count: tucked under a stall table during a rainstorm, stacked on a dusty bench between sets, stuffed into a rucksack on a coach home. After a weekend of music, damp air and exuberant handling, toys that started off smelling of lavender and fresh wool have sometimes ended the festival with a different, more festival-y odour. Over the years I’ve learned to build toys that not only survive the rough-and-tumble of multi-day gatherings but arrive and leave clean(ish), soft, and ready to tell another story.

Choose your fibres with washing and smell in mind

The single most important decision you make is the yarn. Fibre content determines how a toy reacts to sweat, festival dust, frequent handling and repeated washing.

Superwash wool is my go-to for toys that need the warmth and hand of wool but also the practicality of machine washing. Superwash treatment prevents felting and allows for gentle machine cycles, but note it can pill faster than untreated wool. A wool-nylon blend (for example, 75% wool/25% nylon) gives structure and durability—great if your toys get hugged a lot.

Acrylic and acrylic blends are the easiest from a care perspective: cheap, resilient, and fully machine-washable. They don’t retain smells as badly as untreated natural fibres sometimes do, but they can feel less cosy. High-quality acrylics (such as Stylecraft Special DK in the UK) are surprisingly pleasant and very practical for festival stock.

Natural wool (non-superwash) smells beautiful out of the ball but can felt and shrink in the wash. I avoid it for festival toys unless I plan to handwash and tolerate a delicate routine.

Yarns and special treatments to consider

• Antimicrobial yarns — some modern yarns are treated with silver ions or other antimicrobial finishes to reduce bacterial growth and odours. Brands like Schoeller+Stahl (e.g. “sanitized” finishes) are used more in performance textiles but there are consumer yarns with similar treatments. They can be pricier, and the effectiveness and longevity of treatments vary.
• Blends with nylon/ acrylic — adding synthetic fibres improves durability and washability.
• Colourfastness — always choose yarns tested for colourfastness; festival toys often get washed more and dye transfer is an easy way to ruin a garment or another toy in the same wash.

Stuffing choices that breathe and wash well

Stuffing affects smell retention and wash performance. I use two main options:

• Polyester toy stuffing — the classic, cheap, machine-washable option. It dries quickly but can trap odours if not washed frequently. Use high-quality hollowfibre polyester for a softer, loftier feel.
• Carded wool or rolags — natural and breathable, they won’t clump like polyester when wet and have a lovely warmth, but they may retain moisture longer and require careful drying. For festival toys that’ll be washed less frequently, I’ll sometimes combine a polyester core with a thin wool layer for that woolly feel without the risk of long drying times.

Construction and finishing for durability and easy washing

How you construct a toy matters as much as what you make it from.

• Tight stitches — use a slightly smaller needle than the yarn’s recommended size to create a tight fabric. Tighter gauge stops stuffing from escaping and reduces stretching after washes.
• Secure seams — mattress stitch or backstitch reinforcement on seams will survive rough handling and repeated laundering. Whip-stitching can look tidy, but reinforce stress points (limbs, necks) with an extra pass.
• Safeguard attachments — avoid glued-on features. Embroidered eyes and facial details withstand washes best. If you must use safety eyes for market toys, anchor them with washers and consider sewing over the washers with a small felt patch inside to distribute stress.
• Surface texture — bobbles and lots of I-cord can catch on things. Keep designs simple if they’ll be festival survivors.

Washing methods that protect toys and keep smells down

There’s no one-size-fits-all method, but here are the approaches I use depending on fibre and time:

• Quick festival freshen (no machine)
  • Air and sunshine: Hang toys on a clothesline out of direct heat (sunlight helps remove odours and kills some bacteria).
  • Steam: A clothes steamer or iron-on-steam (held at a distance) refreshes fibres and loosens smells. Test on an inconspicuous area first.
  • Vodka or white vinegar spray: A light mist of vodka (diluted 1:1 with water) or 1 part white vinegar to 4 parts water neutralises odours—vinegar smell dissipates quickly. Avoid soaking; just a light spray and air dry.
• Handwash (gentle)
  • Use cool water and a mild soap (Eucalan or a good wool wash). Soak briefly, gently squeeze—don’t wring. Rinse in cool water until clear.
  • Add a splash of white vinegar in the final rinse to neutralise lingering odours.
  • Press between towels to remove moisture and reshape while damp, then lay flat to dry.
• Machine wash (for superwash/acrylic)
  • Place toys in a mesh laundry bag, set machine to a gentle or wool cycle, cool water, low spin.
  • Use a gentle detergent. Avoid fabric softeners—they can coat fibres and trap odours.
  • Air dry where possible. Tumble dry on low can be used for acrylics, but repeated heat shortens yarn life.

On-the-road tips for multi-day festivals

• Bring spares — I always carry a small selection of freshly washed toys and a handful of "festival-ready" ones that I won’t mind getting dingy.
• Packing — store clean stock in zip-seal bags with a silica gel sachet to keep them dry. Damp toys left in a rucksack will pick up smells fast.
• Freshen station — keep a spray bottle of diluted vinegar or vodka, a clothesline or portable drying rack, and a small sewing kit for emergency repairs at your stall.
• Rotation — rotate toys on display so nothing is constantly handled for days on end. This gives each piece a chance to breathe off-display.

Repair and maintenance kit for festivals

Always have:

• Spare yarn scraps (in matching colours)
• Darning needle and small scissors
• Needle and thread for button/safety-eye repairs
• Mini sewing awl or superglue for non-washable fixes
• A small brush to tidy pilling

Quick reference: yarn care comparison

Festival life is messy, musical, and humid—and so are the toys that live there. My advice is practical: select fibres that tolerate washing, build sturdy toys with tight tension and reinforced seams, carry a modest repair and freshen kit, and use quick airing or vinegar/vodka sprays between proper washes. Over time you’ll find combinations that suit your style and the audiences you meet—my favourite toy for market season is a superwash wool-bodied character with a polyester-stuffed head, embroidered features, and a small loop for hanging between sets. It survives the bustle, cleans up well, and still smells faintly of the lavender I pack with it at home.